Global Times: Neo-Chinese cuisine: How China is reimagining its food heritage

BEIJING, Nov. 21, 2024 /PRNewswire/ -- The concept of beauty has intrigued humanity since the dawn of civilization. Various ancient cultures have developed their own recognizable aesthetics. Among these, Chinese aesthetics has its own unique school of thought.

Today, a fresh wave of neo-Chinese aesthetics, rooted in tradition and blended with contemporary innovation, is reaching people not just in China, but all over the world. Like a spring breeze that turns into a nourishing rain, it flows softly, enriching the hearts of many.

In this installment, the Global Times will showcase how neo-Chinese cuisine, an essential component of neo-Chinese aesthetics, is shaping the lifestyle of the young generation and captivating the taste buds of people worldwide. By integrating contemporary aesthetics, health consciousness, and a global perspective, neo-Chinese cuisine offers diners an entirely new gustatory experience and cultural enjoyment.

How can a piece of tofu delight taste buds?

Librarians from Nanjing Library discovered answers in Suiyuan Shidan, or Recipes from the Sui Garden, written by the renowned writer and gastronome Yuan Mei during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), and brought the tofu dish brimming with traditional Chinese culinary wisdom to modern society.

To make this dish, one must finely mince fresh meat slices, add mushroom shavings, pine nut shavings, sunflower seed shavings, chicken dregs, and ham dregs, all to be stir-fried in a rich chicken broth until done. The chef must also use a ladle rather than chopsticks.

Han Chao, a staff member of the library, and his colleague restored a set of such traditional exquisite dishes recorded in the ancient book and uploaded the making processes on social media to recreate contemporary interpretation of Chinese cuisine that respects the essence of traditional dishes while incorporating new elements.

Neo-Chinese cuisine emerged from the integration of tradition and creation.

Part of life

Han told the Global Times that the reason they picked Recipes from the Sui Garden rather than other ancient books is that it is both very famous and was written relatively recently - the work was originally published in 1792.

Cooking the tofu dish is not complicated, Han said, but the preparation of the ingredients is intricate, requiring all to be finely chopped. However, once prepared, the flavor is indeed amazing as the savory aroma of chicken broth is complemented by the crisp fragrance of nuts; and with tofu as the main ingredient, the dish is "fresh, savory, and smooth."

For Han and other librarians, neo-Chinese cuisine is about making history a part of life.

In addition to the recipes of neo-Chinese cuisine, in recent years, new-style tea drinks have also quickly gained prominence in the beverage industry. It is worth noting that as health consciousness becomes widespread, traditional herbal tea drinks have gained popularity due to their unique health philosophy and profound cultural heritage, gradually becoming one of the popular choices for consumers' tea preferences.

Many TCM companies have spotted this business opportunity and have launched a variety of health-focused tea and drinks through independent research or collaboration. For example, a time-honored brand in Beijing has launched a series of health-focused coffee options such as Wolfberry Latte, Motherwort Rose Latte, Cinnamon Cappuccino, and Siraitia Americano.

"Modern people are integrating the aesthetic spirit of our ancestors into their daily diet," Zhang Yiwu, a professor of cultural studies at Peking University, told the Global Times.

He said the cultural wave drawing inspiration from Chinese ancient wisdom shows that the public has a strong interest in traditional Chinese culture. It is also a way to improve people's quality of life.

At present, neo-Chinese cuisine has become an innovative culinary movement that blends traditional Chinese cooking techniques with modern flavors, aesthetics, and culinary trends, and also a necessary part of contemporary Chinese people's life.

'Five senses'

Neo-Chinese cuisine is not just about food and drink; it's also about experiences. Restaurants that serve this style of cuisine often feature modern and stylish interiors that reflect a blend of traditional and contemporary design elements.

The traditional "five senses" of dining refer to sight, hearing, smell, taste, and touch. But now, a new set of "five senses" is emerging as a trend for consumers to evaluate their dining experiences: relaxation, authenticity, presence, sociability, and ambiance. In addition to being well-fed and satisfied with food, atmosphere and the emotional value provided to diners are becoming new factors by which consumers rate a restaurant.

According to a report by the 21st Century Business Herald, the 2023 Youth Consumption Research indicates that 49.3 percent of respondents seek products or services that provide emotional satisfaction, a trend particularly significant among the younger generations.

For instance, near the Beijing Traditional Opera Museum, one of the city's hubs for opera culture, a unique cafe offers visitors more than just coffee. Operated by Liu Zhen, a Peking Opera performer born in 1990, the cafe blends tradition with modernity to showcase China's classical art form in an innovative way. 

The cafe's antique-inspired design features traditional wooden lattice windows, intricately carved decorations, and murals depicting iconic opera scenes. In its spacious courtyard, a small open stage takes a prominent position, surrounded by tables where guests can enjoy live performances while sipping coffee. 

"Coffee has become an essential part of daily life for many. If people can enjoy the art of Peking Opera over a cup of coffee, it's a wonderful way to promote this cultural treasure," Liu told the Global Times. 

One of four Peking opera-themed cafes Liu operates, this location exemplifies a "neo-Chinese style" that merges coffee culture with ancient opera traditions.

"It's about presenting our heritage through fresh methods, reaching new groups of people with emotional resonance," he said. 

For example, inspired by the seasons and the 24 solar terms in the Chinese calendar, each cafe serves a rotating menu of opera-themed specialty coffees.

One standout drink, "Peony Pavilion," draws inspiration from the masterpiece by opera legend Mei Lanfang. This coffee is based on espresso, with the addition of Earl Grey tea and grapefruit juice, topped with an orange peel milk foam.

"The Italian blend leans toward floral and fruity notes, paired with the rich aroma of Earl Grey to reflect a relentless pursuit of love. The grapefruit and orange-scented milk foam embody elegance and classical, feminine charm," Liu explained.

Currently, the cafe has become a popular destination for both domestic and international guests, particularly foreign visitors intrigued by the art form and the special flavored coffee.

"Foreign guests may come out of curiosity at the beginning, but they stay for the beauty of the art form," Liu said. "In this space, they can relax and feel the warmth of Peking Opera. Art is about emotional expression in essence, and emotions can transcend borders." 

Liu has also noticed a growing appreciation among younger visitors, who often wear Chinese-inspired outfits to the cafe.

"The younger generation is embracing Chinese cultural trends. Over the past few years, their love for traditional culture has grown, I think this trend reflects a sense of cultural confidence," he said.

Fusion of East and West

Neo-Chinese cuisine also emphasizes the fusion of Eastern and Western culinary concepts, such as incorporating cheese, bacon, or other Western ingredients into traditional Chinese dishes, or presenting Chinese flavors in a format that is more familiar to Western diners, like "neo-Chinese burgers."

Michelin restaurant JIA has also captivated the appetites of people worldwide with its creative fusion of Eastern and Western elements.

JIA, meaning "the home of crops" in Chinese, has been awarded the Michelin Plate for six consecutive years.

Gao Jason, assistant director of the restaurant, told the Global Times that one of the reasons this restaurant has earned Michelin recognition and is beloved by international diners lies in its meticulous attention to detail when preparing every dish.

Gao mentioned pan-fried pork chuck with chili, for example, features tender pork neck, known for its chewy texture, prepared through multiple steps including steaming, boiling, and frying.

"It is marinated in a blend of soy sauce, aged vinegar, rock sugar, and jasmine juice. Coated with a flavorful crust of flying peanut crumbs, the pork is crispy on the outside and tender in the inside, with a sweet and tangy flavor that lingers on the palate," he said.

The dish is served on a lotus-shaped plate, symbolizing purity and enlightenment in Chinese culture, which elevates the dining experience by adding a layer of cultural meaning to the culinar. 

Jia Jia, the manager, told the Global Times that with China's increasing influence in the world, foreign consumers are gaining a deeper understanding of Chinese cuisine. The internationalization of Chinese dining presents a significant opportunity, with the evolution of traditional Chinese cuisine, embodying the essence of "novelty" in modern dining.

"Effectively conveying the stories behind each dish to domestic and international consumers and fostering cultural resonance has become crucial for the cultural expression and localization of modern Chinese cuisine," Jia noted.

The manager said that modern consumers' expectations have evolved beyond merely "eating well" to prioritizing multi-sensory experiences. People now seek higher levels of spiritual enjoyment. 

The restaurant's design inspiration comes from the famous Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) painter, calligrapher, and gourmet Xu Wei. This cultural resonance is reflected in various aspects, from the restaurant's design concept centered around Ming Dynasty culture to the porcelain vase decorations in the lobby featuring ­poetic and artistic elements. The wallpaper surrounding the dining area also draws inspiration from Xu's works.

"In essence, neo-Chinese cuisine represents a cultural revival with global appeal, showcasing the dynamic and evolving nature of Chinese culinary tradition in a modern context. It's a response to the growing demand for diverse and innovative dining experiences that honor heritage while embracing the new," Zheng ­Changling, a research fellow at the Chinese National Academy of Arts, told the Global Times.

SOURCE Global Times