Exfoliation Explained: How to Choose the Right Approach for Your Skin

The Exfoliation Conversation: Physical, Chemical, and Enzymatic - What's the Difference?

LOS ANGELES, Feb. 10, 2026 /PRNewswire/ -- Exfoliation is one of the most transformative steps in any skincare routine when approached thoughtfully. By removing the buildup of dead skin cells, exfoliation can help support the appearance of clear-looking skin, refined texture, and improved visible tone, while helping subsequent products apply more evenly. Despite its benefits, exfoliation remains one of the most misunderstood steps in skin care, often leading to overuse or product choices that compromise the skin barrier rather than support it.

As conversations around exfoliation continue to evolve, there is a growing emphasis on achieving visible results without irritation, a perspective that informs Dermalogica's newly launched "Noise Off, Results On" campaign, spotlighting exfoliation as a key step in delivering results while supporting the skin barrier.

Confusion around exfoliation stems from the wide range of technologies available today. Not all exfoliants function in the same way or are intended to address the same concerns. Some work on the skin's surface to help loosen the bonds between dead surface cells, while others interact with oil and debris within pores. Certain exfoliants are gentle enough for regular use, while others are designed for more periodic or professional application. Understanding these distinctions is essential to selecting an exfoliation approach that supports both immediate results and long-term skin health.

What's the difference between AHAs, BHAs and PHAs?
Chemical exfoliants are generally categorized into alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), and polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), each defined by molecular structure and solubility. AHAs are water-soluble acids that exfoliate primarily on the skin's surface, making them effective for visible signs of skin damage like dullness, uneven tone, fine lines, and sun damage. Glycolic acid, widely recognized for its fast-acting surface exfoliation, delivers noticeable results due to its small molecular size, while lactic and mandelic acids offer gentler alternatives with added hydration and improved tolerability for sensitive or acne-prone skin. Supporting AHAs such as citric, malic, and tartaric acids are often included to enhance brightening and formula performance rather than act as primary exfoliants.

BHAs differ in that they are oil-soluble, allowing them to penetrate through sebum and exfoliate within the pore. This makes them particularly beneficial for oily, congested, and acne-prone skin. Salicylic acid remains the gold standard in this category, known for its exfoliating, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties, while gentler derivatives such as betaine salicylate provide pore-clearing benefits with reduced irritation potential.

PHAs represent a newer generation of exfoliating acids with larger molecular structures that remain closer to the skin's surface. This slower, more controlled exfoliation minimizes irritation while offering added humectant and antioxidant benefits. Ingredients such as gluconolactone and lactobionic acid are especially well suited for sensitive, barrier-compromised, or mature skin, reinforcing hydration and barrier support alongside gentle resurfacing.

Enzymatic exfoliants provide a non-acidic alternative by breaking down keratin protein in dead skin cells without altering the skin's pH. This makes enzyme exfoliation appropriate for sensitive or post-procedure skin, as well as for those seeking frequent exfoliation without overstimulation. Common enzymes derived from papaya, pineapple, and pumpkin gently refine texture while maintaining skin comfort.

Effective exfoliation depends not only on ingredient choice but also on proper use. Introducing exfoliation gradually, avoiding the unnecessary layering of multiple acids, supporting the skin with hydration and barrier-repair formulas, and maintaining consistent sunscreen use are all critical to achieving visible results while protecting skin health. More intensive exfoliating agents, including trichloroacetic acid, remain best suited for professional settings due to their strength and precision.

Can different types of exfoliation be used together?
As skincare routines continue to evolve, combining complementary exfoliation approaches can support more comprehensive care. Gentle daily exfoliation with Daily Microfoliant, which blends rice-based physical exfoliation with enzymatic activity, helps maintain smoothness and clarity at the surface. This can be paired effectively with advanced treatment formulas such as Phyto Nature E², which supports visible skin renewal through next-generation exosome technology rather than traditional exfoliating acids. When used together, these approaches address different aspects of skin renewal without compromising skin health.

Ultimately, effective exfoliation is about precision rather than intensity. By understanding how different exfoliation methods work and how to identify them on an ingredient label, we can build routines that support resilient, healthy-looking skin over time.

A Simple Framework for Choosing an Exfoliation Approach
When selecting an exfoliation approach, skin type, concerns, and sensitivity level should all be considered. Skin therapists often evaluate exfoliation needs using a combination of skin condition, barrier health, and treatment goals. As a general framework:

• Choose AHAs when primary concerns include dullness, uneven tone, rough texture, or visible signs of aging.
• Choose BHAs when concerns center around oiliness, congestion, breakouts, or enlarged-looking pores.
• Choose PHAs when skin is sensitive, dehydrated, or barrier-compromised, or when a gentler exfoliation approach is preferred.
• Choose enzyme or gentle physical exfoliation when skin is reactive, post-treatment, or when very mild, frequent exfoliation is desired.

About Dermalogica
Used by skin care professionals around the world, Dermalogica delivers skin treatment expertise with every touch. In 1983, founder Jane Wurwand identified a gap in professional skin care training and created the International Dermal Institute to provide advanced, post-graduate education. Wurwand launched Dermalogica in 1986, bucking the era's industry trends in favor of clean formulas, a minimalist look, and commitment to skin health, not beauty.

Dermalogica today trains 100,000 skin therapists per year in advanced technologies and services. Products are formulated for the treatment room, used daily in the hands of licensed skin therapists and by millions of people for professional results at home. Headquartered in Los Angeles, CA, Dermalogica is made in the USA, with products sold in more than 80 countries worldwide. For more information, visit www.dermalogica.com.

SOURCE Dermalogica