MICROFLUIDICS IN COSMETICS, A NEW FORM OF EMULSION
Microfluidics make it possible to manipulate fluids with high accuracy at a micrometric scale. At this scale, capillary forces prevail over gravity. Thanks to a system where the flow is controlled and high, it is possible to shape droplets one by one and control their size.
This accurate calibration produces an emulsion whose structuration is more orderly than with conventional technologies. Droplet stability is secured by a complex coacervation process which combines two polymers interacting together in the manner of "molecular velcro tapes" to form an evanescent membrane.
The result: droplets in which a new high value-added fat-soluble active ingredient is protected until application. These perfectly calibrated and stable droplets burst instantly upon application with outstanding moisturizing efficiency for the skin. As they burst on the skin without leaving any residue, these droplets create an unparalleled sensory experience unmatched in traditional emulsions.
NEW TECHNOLOGICAL CHALLENGES
In partnership with the French start-up Capsum, CHANEL Research teams have met new technological challenges in microfluidics in order to offer HYDRA BEAUTY Micro Crème today.
The first challenge: producing a microfluidic cream for packaging in jars.
Since the droplets are delicate and evanescent, their resistance has been enhanced in comparison with serums in airless packaging, without losing their unique sensorial profile. The result: droplets do not burst when they are scooped out of the jar but only when the cream is applied to the face. The joint CHANEL and Capsum team has managed to create gel droplets that are both evanescent and high-resistance, but also visible to the naked eye in a cream.
The second challenge: producing a smooth texture through the microfluidic process.
HYDRA BEAUTY Micro Crème combines visible and invisible droplets stabilized by "molecular velcro tapes" for remarkable application comfort. The joint CHANEL and Capsum team has managed to integrate a sensory cascade in this cream, where the fresh feeling of water is followed by the richness of the oil.
The third challenge: blending delicate and evanescent droplets into the cream.
To achieve this, a new manufacturing process had to be devised to blend the droplets into the cream without splitting them while ensuring homogenous distribution. Machines and production lines were thus tailor designed to manufacture HYDRA BEAUTY Micro Crème.
BRINGING TOGETHER THE BEST OF MICROFLUIDICS EXPERTISE AND FORMULATION KNOW-HOW
In 2009 at Harvard University, Christian Mahé, senior Vice-President of CHANEL Beauty Research and Innovation, met physicist David Weitz, a pioneer of microfluidics. A visionary and always ready to gamble on fields of fundamental research seemingly far from the world of Beauty, Christian Mahé, in 2010, launched an audacious research program bringing together CHANEL and Capsum, a French start-up created by David Weitz and two other top-level scientists, Sébastien Bardon, Jérôme Bibette.
Capsum offers its expertise in microfluidics, CHANEL its formulation know-how and its industrial expertise, to create the following outcome: an unprecedented technology combining science, craftsmanship (high-precision materials created one by one) and industry (large-scale production) which contributes to a revolution for cosmetic emulsions.
This partnership gave rise to HYDRA BEAUTY Micro Serum in 2015, HYDRA BEAUTY Micro Gel Yeux in 2016 and today HYDRA BEAUTY Micro Crème. For each one of these products, technological limits have been pushed further back.
"This is an example of successful co-development between CHANEL and a start-up," states Christian Mahé. "This microfluidics innovation platform is capable of broadening the scope of possibilities (new technologies, new visuals, new textures…) to develop tomorrow's cosmetics".
About CHANEL Research
CHANEL Research is CHANEL Fragrance & Beauty's research and development department. Its mission is to offer solutions that are more efficient, safer, simpler and enjoyable, to enhance the singular beauty of each and every woman. To this end, CHANEL Research has opted for a resolutely systemic approach and implements integrative methodologies supported by multidisciplinary and cross-cultural teams. As part of an open scientific ecosystem, CHANEL Research develops many international partnerships with teams of academics, start-ups and industrial players. A pioneer in the field of cosmetics, CHANEL Research places innovation at the core of its products and services.
SOURCE CHANEL Research